HomeDevice Checkups › Buying a Used Phone

Checking a Used Phone Before You Buy

Six checks that cover the parts of a phone most likely to be quietly broken, all of them runnable in the phone's own browser.

Phones hide their faults better than laptops, because the screen and the digitiser are the same component and both are the parts most likely to have been repaired. A replaced screen is not automatically a problem, but an aftermarket panel can have a narrower colour range, worse brightness, or a digitiser that misses touches in a band near one edge. None of that is visible from the home screen.

The other reason to check carefully is that phone repairs are disproportionately expensive relative to secondhand value. A screen and digitiser assembly on a mid-range handset can cost a substantial share of what the whole phone is worth used. Unlike a laptop, you also cannot work around a bad touchscreen with an external peripheral — if the digitiser has a dead band, the phone is compromised for everything.

Run these on the phone you are buying, in its own browser, not on yours. That sounds obvious but it is the single most common mistake: people check the seller's listing photos and then test their own device out of habit. Every step below works in mobile Safari or Chrome with nothing installed.

The checklist

Tick each step as you go. Run them on the handset you are buying rather than your own, and keep the brightness up throughout — several of these checks depend on it.

0 of 6 done
  1. Run the colour cycle full screen with the brightness turned up. Tilt the phone to catch discolouration that only shows at an angle.

    Open the Dead Pixel / Screen →

    Pass: Uniform colour across the whole panel with no fixed dots or patches.

    Fail: Fixed dots, a visible tint in one region, or uneven brightness across the panel.

    If it fails: Check a monitor for dead pixels — Confirm the defect and understand how visible it will be day to day.

  2. OLED phones can retain a faint ghost of the status bar or navigation buttons. A full black field, then a dim grey one, makes retention visible.

    Open the Black Screen →

    Pass: An even black field with no visible ghosting of icons or bars.

    Fail: A faint permanent outline of the status bar, keyboard or navigation buttons.

    If it fails: Dead pixel vs stuck pixel — Tell burn-in apart from a stuck pixel — they are different faults with different outcomes.

  3. Drag one finger slowly over every part of the glass, including right to the edges and into the corners.

    Open the Touchscreen Test →

    Pass: A continuous unbroken trace everywhere you drag, with no gaps.

    Fail: Any gap in the trace, or areas where you must press harder to register.

    If it fails: How to test touchscreen dead zones — Map the dead zone precisely and work out whether it is the digitiser or a protector.

  4. Leave the test open without touching the screen for thirty seconds, ideally while the phone is charging.

    Open the Touchscreen Test →

    Pass: No input registers while nobody is touching the screen.

    Fail: Taps or swipes appearing on their own, especially while charging.

    If it fails: Touchscreen ghost touches — Identify whether the charger is injecting noise or the digitiser is failing.

  5. Speak at normal volume and watch the meter, then record and play back. Phones have several microphones, so also try it in speakerphone orientation.

    Open the Microphone Test →

    Pass: The meter tracks your voice and the recording plays back clearly.

    Fail: No response, or a recording that is muffled, crackling or very quiet.

    If it fails: Mic too quiet? — Check whether it is a blocked port, a setting, or the microphone itself.

  6. Play the test tone through the loudspeaker at moderate volume, then open the camera test to confirm the front camera produces a picture.

    Open the Speaker Test →

    Pass: Clean sound with no rattle, and a clear live camera preview.

    Fail: Distortion or rattling at moderate volume, or a camera that fails to start.

    If it fails: Webcam showing a black screen — Work through the usual causes of a camera that opens to a black frame.

More tests worth running here

Not essential to the checklist above, but relevant to this situation and quick to add.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I run these tests on the phone itself?

Yes, and you should. Every test on this checklist works in mobile Safari and mobile Chrome. Testing on the actual handset you are buying is the entire point — checking your own phone out of habit is the most common mistake people make here.

How do I tell OLED burn-in from a dead pixel?

Burn-in appears as a faint ghost of something that was previously displayed for a long time — a status bar, a keyboard outline, navigation buttons — and it covers an area rather than a point. A dead pixel is a single fixed dot. Burn-in is also usually easier to see on mid-grey than on pure black.

The seller says the screen was replaced. Is that a problem?

Not automatically, but it raises the stakes on the screen and touch steps. Aftermarket panels vary widely in colour accuracy, maximum brightness and digitiser quality. Run the colour cycle and the full touchscreen drag carefully, and check for a dead band near the edges, which is where cheaper replacement digitisers tend to fail.

Why test for ghost touches while charging?

Because a poor-quality or failing charger is one of the most common causes. Electrical noise from the charger couples into the digitiser and registers as phantom input. If ghost touches appear only when plugged in, try a different charger before concluding the screen is faulty.

Can a browser test check the phone's battery health?

Not meaningfully. Mobile browsers largely do not expose the Battery Status interface, and even where they do it reports current level rather than capacity relative to new. Check battery health in the phone's own settings instead — both major mobile operating systems report it directly.

Is my checklist progress sent anywhere?

No. Progress is kept in your browser's localStorage on the device you are using, purely so you can resume if you close the tab. There is no account, no sync and no server. Clearing browser data clears it.

Other checkups

These tests run in the phone's own browser and touch nothing on the device — no install, no account, no upload, and no trace left behind after you close the tab. See how we validate these tests.

Found an error on this page, or a result that does not match your hardware? Tell us and we will correct it.